Leather History in the UK
The European gay leather subculture started in the late 1950s alongside the United States, but very little documentation exists.
Many kinky activities moved predominantly underground and spread via word of mouth.
As gay clubs began to open in the United States and the subculture of leather began to put down roots in more open-minded cities, the scene began to travel worldwide with the wealthier classes who came to visit the States. Places like Amsterdam, Berlin, and London became hubs for the leather movement in Europe.
BDSM Gay Leather: From Rockers to New Romantics
The 1950s Rockers
Originally a biker group formed in the 1950s in England, the Rockers movement was very influential, both for the general public and future subcultures.
Signature items in a Rockers uniform included a white scarf around the mouth and neck, a black leather jacket, and Levi jeans, though many Rockers opted for black leather pants. Younger generations, particularly young gay men, were drawn to the masculine look of leather, as well as to the feel, if they had a fetish for it.
Those seeking to break away from the slicked-back hair and cleaned-up looks of prior generations chose to model their outfits after the Rockers, including white socks folded over the top of boots and white scarves in a nod to the ones worn by WWI aviation pilots. But this was just the beginning.
American musicians like Eddie Cochran and Gene Vincent found a foothold in the UK, performing in black leather pants, unruly hair and bomber jackets, defying the 1950s clean-cut pop stereotype.
Leather in the 1960s & 1970s
The 1960s and 1970s brought full leather outfits to the pop music scene in a flood of talent.
Musicians like Vince Taylor, the (early) Beatles, Jim Morrison, and Elvis Presley all wore leather outfits. Gay leather and pop music continued their momentum, exploding onto the scene throughout the 1970s, through the newborn glam rock genre. Whilst the Rockers wore leather as a celebration of masculinity, musicians such as David Bowie and Queen’s Freddie Mercury were using leather as more of a sex symbol and a statement of rebellion against the status quo.
Two notable derivatives of the glam rock movement were punk rock and new wave, which brought not only a new music revolution, but also the birth of a new subculture. Much like the bands of the glam rock genre, punk and new wave artists like Billy Idol, the Sex Pistols, the Clash, and Judas Priest also wore black leather.
The 1980s Economic Downturn and Fighting The Power
In 1979, Great Britain was in the grips of a terrible economic downturn. Rising inflation and unemployment created the background by which a new generation would take on their own form of rebellion. As Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher attempted to roll-out a conservative agenda, bold underground fashions were picking up steam.
London would soon become the hub for the New Romantic movement, a post-punk bold exploration of eclectic looks, extravagant hair, and killer makeup.
Defying dichotomies of mainstream versus alternative, male versus female, or any privilege associated with class systems, the New Romantics rejected overt masculinity and embraced androgyny. Borrowing considerably from glam rock, experiments in cross-dressing became a signature part of the New Romantics movement as an artistic form of rebellion.
Whilst the emergence of this New Romantic subculture was likely motivated by class conflict, the use of attire as a form of artistic or sexual expression was nothing new to the gay leather scene.
Gay Leather & BDSM in the UK
The first European leather bar opened in Amsterdam in 1959 (Argos), and the first gay motorcycle club in London in 1965 (69 Club).
It’s important to note that homosexuality was not decriminalised in England and Wales until 1967, and even then was only legal for those over the age of 21.
As a result, the upper class of these countries were the ones with the luxury of affording to be gay; throwing invitation-only private parties far away from the public eye. Leather clubs in the UK were closely tied to S&M, which was still illegal in the country, and police raids were a regular occurrence on these clubs. One high-profile sting in 1987, Operation Spanner, resulted in the R v Brown ruling by the House of Lords that still holds today: it is not possible to legally consent to “extreme” S&M practices.
The gay leather scene in the UK reached its peak in the 1970s, most notably the Coleherne. While the pub had been around since the 1880s, by 1965 it was an internationally-recognized gay bar, attracting the likes of Freddie Mercury, Anthony Perkins, and Ian McKellen to name a few. Thousands of leathermen could find scenes across London and enjoy evenings at various clubs and events in the surrounding geographic area.
It’s difficult to overstate the impact of the AIDS epidemic on the leather and gay scene across the world. First appearing in 1981, AIDS-related deaths spread with a fierce veracity, obliterating communities and closing down bars, including many in Earl’s Court.
Legalising Homosexuality in The UK
It wasn’t until 2003 that the age of consent for homosexual activity was brought down to the age of 16, the same as that of heterosexual activity.
Once homosexuality was decriminalised, fan clubs began to appear quickly, most notably in London, Brighton, Manchester, Birmingham and Bournemouth. They survived under the guise of Motor Sports Clubs, with fetish-ware displayed as a passion for biking.
Whilst one would think the dawn of the internet would bring more growth to the leather community, the truth is that such access meant attending leather clubs or events was not as much of a demand as it once was. Paired with the gentrification of queer-friendly areas of the major cities and the ever-increasing cost of leather accessories, it’s no wonder that this subculture has faced challenges.
Nevertheless, the kinky leather subculture in the UK still exists and, much like the kink and BDSM lifestyle as a whole, will no doubt continue to evolve and change with the times.
We covered its history in the US as best we could in our article on the subject. As we mentioned in that piece, no one on the Kynk 101 team is active in leather culture. If you see something missing (or downright incorrect), or if you have personal experiences to share, please let us know!
Sources: https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2018/oct/04/why-is-gay-leather-scene-dying
https://www.anothermanmag.com/style-grooming/10715/the-sexy-secret-history-of-leather-fetish-fashion
